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HIGH VOLTAGE ARRAY Questions? Just call and Replace your existing security fencing. Check off the steps and it will make things easier.
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Step 1: The corners. The one area that many installers cheat on, (cheap as possible) is the corners. Some installers actually try to stretch the wire around all the corners. So it is suggested that you rework the corners for a long-lasting, trouble-free installation. Once, in a great while you might stretch around a single corner for a short jag in the fence line, but whenever possible, maintain separate stretching for each straight section. The suggested method is that the wires are stretched in a straight line from corner to corner and only then connected around the corner. This may require a little additional effort, but will really pay off in the long term. You will achieve a tight good looking fence that will provide maximum protection and minimize problems and maintenance for long time. (click on picture for expanded details) In order, from left to the right (shown on graphic) from the post is an "inline" strain insulator, a tensioning device (turnbuckle shown), and a tensioning spring and then the conducting wire. The order is not important. This maintains constant tension of the wire, and, over time, all wire will stretch, ratcheting the tensioning device once or twice a year will compensate for the stretch of the wire and the spring will maintain a taut neat looking array. One tensioning device and spring are suggested for each straight section of wire. There are several good reasons for the springs and tension devices on each straight section of wire. Also your maintenance problems will be considerably less. At the far end of each straight section, all that is required is an inline strain insulator.
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Step 2: The Interconnection & Zones. The fence should be interconnected into a single loop in some fashion. It makes absolutely no sense to have the top wires zoned separate from the bottom wires. So it is suggested to make each fence section into one single zone. The only purpose of zoning is to guide the responder (police or maintenance) to the appropriate fence section or area. If your perimeter fence starts to exceed 2-300 yards, it becomes more and more attractive and effective to install your fence in zoned sections.
The attached field sketch shows how to interconnect the "hot" (high voltage) conductors around the corners to the gate opening to make/obtain a single loop that can be effectively monitored. The field sketch shows the interconnection of the 6 high voltage conductors of a 12 wire fence. The other six conductors are connected and bonded to the ground array in more than one place. The number of "hot" (high voltage) conductors is not an issue, as the principal is exactly the same. However, it is convenient to have an even number of "hot" conductors, so the end of the loop returns to the same location as the start or feed from the high voltage energizer.
| Step 3: The Ground. Check and verify the ground. Literally 90% plus of electric fence failures occur because of poor or insufficient grounding. It is suggested that ground rods, that are a minimum of 8 foot long, copper clad or galvanized, be used. There should be at least two rods, with additional rods added for every 100 yards of fencing. All these rods should be bonded (tied) together with the corner posts, and any other fencing that is used that should be ground potential. Please refer to the field sketch for an example. Click on sketch to enlarge. On troubleshooting existing fence systems, we have found systems where no ground rods were used at all and the only ground connection was from the fence energizer and connected to a water pipe, or a short piece of conduit. Every manufacturer will tell you, that NEVER EVER ground your high voltage supply to a water supply or existing piping. This creates a real danger on several levels.
Without a good ground, your fence array is pretty much useless and will not provide the shocking deterrent that you are expecting and paying for. NOTE: There should also be a separate ground rod for the high voltage monitoring device. (EX: Fence Hawk) This is a security system and without a good ground, it WILL NOT work. A separate ground rod for the high voltage monitor will allow the device to monitor the grounding, in addition to cut and/or shorted wires.
Step 4: Monitoring and Police Response. | This is an option that you may or may not opt for. A monitored system will follow your instructions and call the police, call you, call your agent or all of the above to respond to a loss of fence voltage by break, cut, short, or whatever reason. The Fence Hawk will also alert your maintenance personnel when the voltage is starting to be reduced from overgrown weeds or vines. You no longer have to bother about measuring the fence voltage with a meter as the actual voltage is what is being monitored. Some security companies will monitor their security systems out of their garage or basement with minimal equipment. We strongly suggest that you be monitored from a reliable security company monitoring service (local or otherwise) that offers a certified UL Listed monitoring service. Where Underwriters Laboratories actually inspects the monitoring premises once a year to achieve and certify that the equipment, backup equipment, power supplies, security and in-house training conform UL standards. This is a requirement for all commercial Fire Alarms and high end security systems. Intelligent Fencing offers UL Listed monitoring service for $30.00/month. This is done under separate contract, and not part of your equipment lease.
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| Each fence section (zone) is controlled The High Voltage is connected to the fence section and returned to be monitored by the Fence Hawk. The whole zone can be turned on and off with the keypad of the security control panel in the office. For most applications, the perimeter array
For complete assembled kits, please go to our corporate site at www.IntelligentFencing.com
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